Oslo Stitch
Now that you have your materials together, this video will get you started with the most basic stitch.
The Oslo Stitch.
Here is a photo of one row of Oslo stitch completed. I think it is really pretty - it looks a bit like a braid!
And here is a close up of several rows of the Oslo stitch done in a hat.
There are a couple of variations on the Oslo stitch, which can give it not only a slightly different look, but also make the garment lighter weight and quite stretchy (which is what I like for a headband) or denser (and therefore warmer) and less stretchy, which is what I like for a hat.
I will get into more details about how to "vary" the stitch several videos from now. And there are additional stitches - the Finnish stitch, the Mammen stitch, Coptic stitch - lots more to explore down the line. But we need to start with the basics.
Watch the video below and practice getting started and getting a good even tension on the Oslo stitch before going on to the next page where you'll learn how to splice your yarn so you can work longer pieces.
I recommend you practice this first - don't worry about wasting 5-10 yards of yarn to keep repeating this. If you have a full skein of Lamb's Pride Bulky (about 125 yds) you need only 2/3 of it for the hat - that leaves 1/3 for practice! In the long run, it will be worth practicing on several 1 yd lengths before you move on to the next video! But remember to work with about 1-1.5 yd lengths....no longer or you will drive yourself crazy!
And here is a video showing how you would start nalbinding in the round. I would use this approach if I wanted to nalbind trivets or coasters, or a round rug. You can use this approach for hats, socks, etc, (like knitting a hat from the crown down to the brim, or a sock knit toe up instead of cuff cown), but I think it is easier to work a hat from the brim to the crown - so ultimately that is how the hat instructions I provide at the end of this tutorial are written. But in case you want to try it the other way, here is how to get started!
The Oslo Stitch.
Here is a photo of one row of Oslo stitch completed. I think it is really pretty - it looks a bit like a braid!
And here is a close up of several rows of the Oslo stitch done in a hat.
There are a couple of variations on the Oslo stitch, which can give it not only a slightly different look, but also make the garment lighter weight and quite stretchy (which is what I like for a headband) or denser (and therefore warmer) and less stretchy, which is what I like for a hat.
I will get into more details about how to "vary" the stitch several videos from now. And there are additional stitches - the Finnish stitch, the Mammen stitch, Coptic stitch - lots more to explore down the line. But we need to start with the basics.
Watch the video below and practice getting started and getting a good even tension on the Oslo stitch before going on to the next page where you'll learn how to splice your yarn so you can work longer pieces.
I recommend you practice this first - don't worry about wasting 5-10 yards of yarn to keep repeating this. If you have a full skein of Lamb's Pride Bulky (about 125 yds) you need only 2/3 of it for the hat - that leaves 1/3 for practice! In the long run, it will be worth practicing on several 1 yd lengths before you move on to the next video! But remember to work with about 1-1.5 yd lengths....no longer or you will drive yourself crazy!
And here is a video showing how you would start nalbinding in the round. I would use this approach if I wanted to nalbind trivets or coasters, or a round rug. You can use this approach for hats, socks, etc, (like knitting a hat from the crown down to the brim, or a sock knit toe up instead of cuff cown), but I think it is easier to work a hat from the brim to the crown - so ultimately that is how the hat instructions I provide at the end of this tutorial are written. But in case you want to try it the other way, here is how to get started!
